Nose: Waves of Oloroso richness lathers raisins, figs and blood oranges, and brings classic Sherry spices. Hazelnut honey cake imposes itself, with chunks of dark chocolate with a caramel centre and some green chilli heat. Sweet barley and red wine-stained oak permeate throughout.

Palate: Opens with fruity plum wine, fleshy nectarines and blackberry jam. Bright cinnamon and galangal emerge among cigar box and toasted walnuts, and join notes of black treacle and fresh soil. The backdrop has a pleasant, buttery quality.

Finish: Medium length, warm baking spices percolate through honey’d malt and Sherried oak.

Overall: Complex, assured and understated in its brilliance. Give it time.