Nose: Bundles of thick, chewy dried fruits and dry, autumnal spices give this dram a Christmassy opening. Then earthy oak, milky coffee and rancio notes develop. There’s plenty of vanilla, butterscotch, old leather and green tobacco leaf underneath, with just a faint hint of smoke.

Palate: Toffee fudge, dense treacle and molasses add a sticky, yet succulent sweetness which then cascades into darker, deeper tones of mocha, dusty oak and stewed blackberries. Zesty Seville marmalade adds pep among a tang of rhubarb and plenty of silky oak tannins against a backdrop of aromatic herbs and gentle bonfire smoke.

Finish: An exceptionally long and sumptuous finish concludes with drying, ancient oak and a little black fruit compote.

Overall: This beauty just oozes Speyside sophistication. It tastes as good as it looks, too...